Multiple compass points must be mentioned when it comes to describing Gul & Sepoy, the brand new restaurant from Harneet and Devina Baweja. In terms of location, it’s East London in the Western world. In terms of cuisine, it’s the robust food of India’s North joining the vibrant spice of the South West.
The new venue will be the third in the couple’s seemingly ever-increasing Shoreditch empire, which already comprises Michelin-favoured Gunpowder and Nigella-praised Madame D’s. Gul & Sepoy undeniably shares some of the style and swagger of its siblings, but in concept, it’s got an identity all of its own.
Gul & Sepoy’s menu is a game of two halves. The ‘Gul’ section draws inspiration from Raj palace banquets of days long gone by, showcasing food from the Northern Punjab and Rajasthan with a modern spin well-suited to Shoreditch. Flamboyant and opulent, the dishes include jackfruit kababs, a three-bird Awadhi korma, and walnut fudge with baked Alaska and salted caramel.
The ‘Sepoy’ menu, meanwhile, champions the rustic tucker cooked by roving Indian soldiers, accented by the flavours familiar to Nirmal from his Maharashtrian upbringing and taking a ‘nose-to-tail’ approach – hence the presence of potted Coorgi pig’s head and masala wild rabbit terrine.
With a brand-new concept and a pretty mouthwatering menu in prospect, it seems like a spot at Gul & Sepoy’s oversized marble feasting tables will soon be prime real estate.
Five minutes with Gul & Sepoy co-founder Harneet Baweja
Favourite dish from the opening menu?
Definitely the slow-cooked raan (leg of kid goat) with roasted vegetables. It’s going to be a big, slow-cooked sharing portion. I’m drooling just talking about it.
Favourite feature of the new restaurant?
The decades-old bar we reclaimed which now sits on the ground floor of the restaurant. We also found some vintage guns which we’ve framed and hung on the wall.
Your dream dinner date?
With Devina, the Mrs., eating hand-pulled noodles and pork. We both work really long hours and I miss spending time with her.
Biggest hope for Gul & Sepoy?
To become a neighbourhood restaurant that serves fantastic food. Our local community has been very kind to us, and we’d like to continue serving them.
Where would you eat if your kitchen was closed?
Smoking Goat in Soho, or Silk Road in Camberwell.
- Gul and Sepoy opens on 27 September at 65 Commercial Street, London E1 6BD. For more information, click here
- Follow @GulandSepoy on Instagram and Twitter
- To read an interview with Harneet Baweja, click here
- To read more about Madame D, click here
Image credit: Steven Joyce