Get pickled! A guide to the best Indian condiments

mr-todiwalas-16

‘Chutney’ is a word adopted into English from a Hindi term meaning ‘to lick’; a fitting epithet for a category of condiments that add so much relish to the foodstuff to which they’re applied. In the UK, ‘chutney’ is almost always applied to long-simmered, vinegar-laced and sugary-sweet stuff. But India’s classification of the category is rather broader.

Chutneys can be fresh, zesty preparations; down South, often based on ground-down dal, ginger, peanuts, or fresh coconut flesh. Then there’s the India-wide, ubiquitous green chutney – a herbaceous paste that will call to mind a particularly zippy pesto without the oil. In South India, they’re served with snack foods like idlis and dosa; whilst Delhi‘s innumerable street chaats would be incomplete without either verdant splashes of green chutney or the sweet-sour tang of runny, ketchup-like tamarind and date chutney.

Certain chutneys may appear all over India, but their flavours will vary not just from state to state or home to home, but also from person to person. Bengal‘s chutneys are rather unique; sweet, jam-like preserves flavoured with the five seed spice blend called panch phoron; the closest cousins to the sweet mango gloop curryhouses coerce you to consume alongside a stack of poppadoms before a meal.

But in Bengali homes, preserve-laden pappads are eaten post-prandially as an after-dinner treat to please the typically sweet-loving palate. North Indian murabbas are similarly saccharine – essentially the Indian answer to Middle Eastern spoon sweets, featuring pieces of fruits, vegetables or even flower petals preserved in thick sugar syrup.

tomato chutney

Prefer piquant? Indian pickles are often oily, tart, tangy, salty and sour. They might include amla (Indian gooseberry), green mango, Indian olives, garlic, chilli, carrots, or any one of a million and one other ingredients; or indeed, as with the famous Achar Pachranga pickle, a marvellous melange. They also are not exclusively vegetarian. Just a little of a meat- or fish-based preparation is sufficient to add savour to a mountain of rice. Goa’s Portuguese-influenced balchao or even the original vindalho are examples, their high volumes of vinegar acting as an excellent preservative in the days prior to refrigeration.

You can even try dry chutneys – ‘podi’ powders that are mixed with a little oil or ghee and used to make snacks even more lip-smacking. ‘Gunpowder’ is one such offering, its name explaining its explosive effect. Similarly spiky is the Bengali mustard-based sauce, kasundi – a must for fans of sinus-clearing Colman’s.

I know, I know… it might be hard to beat a blob of Branston on a cheese sandwich. But variety is the spice of life, so the next time your food needs a bit of zip, dip your knife into one of these cracking condiments…

 The Spice Tailor Chutnis

Anjum Anand The Spice Tailor Indian Chutni jars

Anjum Anand’s ‘Chutni’ range features some unusual specimens and, unusually for shelf-stable attempts, items like the Andhra Pradeshi peanut and tamarind retain their vibrancy. Recipes are regionally-inspired and authentic – the range includes a lime and chilli pickle that’s a favourite of Anjum’s husband’s family, and a sweet green papaya chutney commonly called ‘plastic chutney’ owing to the crystal clear appearance of the paper-thin papaya.


Achar Pachranga

Achar Pachranga Indian mix pickle

The tin or tub looks terrific in the kitchen, and the oily, tart, salty savour of what’s within lifts any and every meal. Found in most Indian supermarkets, Achar Pachranga is a rich mix of mango, lemon, lotus root, turnip, karonda berries, carrot, tenti dehla (aka ‘snotty gobbles’ in colloquial English!), and ginger root; hot with whole chillies and further flavoured with several spices.


 Mr. Todiwala’s Pickles & Chutneys

Mr Todiwala pickles and chutneys Indan

The whole range of ‘Mr Todiwala’s Splendidly Spicy and Deliciously Hot Pickles and Chutneys’ is worth relishing, and many are eye-opening and unusual to boot. The preservative-free preparations are packed with carefully-sourced ingredients including game and seafood. Try them all, but first try the prawn, venison, and wild boar vindaloo pickles, the beetroot chutney, and the exquisite carrot-and-dried-fruit Parsi wedding pickle.


That Hungry Chef

That Hungry Chef Curious pickle achari beef

Pratap Chahal wants to encourage experimentation amongst Indian food fans and get them relishing regional recipes. Three tongue-tingling ‘Mojo Risin” chilli relishes are perfect for fans of fire AND flavour, whilst the Achari Beef and Pork Vindaloo ‘Curious Pickles’ can be pressed into service as a sandwich spread, a cheese condiment, or even a concentrated curry base to be let down with coconut milk.


Curry Cuisine

Curry_Cuisine_chutneys

As you’d rightfully expect from cookery school owners with a strong commitment to both using and showcasing local, quality produce, Curry Cuisine chutneys are cracking. Indian-spiced Yorkshire plum and Beetroot chutneys are beautiful, and tart Yorkshire rhubarb varieties similarly splendid – the latter available in either a single-fruit version or paired with sweet, fruity mango.


St. John & Dolly Smith

St John Dolly Smith pickle Indian

The long-established Anglo-Indian condiment company might not make a meal of creating cracking chutneys, pickles and sauces, but all those products have no doubt been the making of many a meal. Hot Indian apple pickle, exemplary brinjal pickle, and an unusual sweet, light lime chutney are my recommended relishes, but there’s nothing in this range that will fall short of satisfying.


Mr. Vikki’s

Mr Vikki's Banana Habanero chutney

Mr Vikki’s condiment collection is consistently excellent, but the banana-habanero chutney is especially noteworthy. Habanero’s heat is fruity by nature, snuggling up sweetly with ripe banana and additional aromatics to award-winning effect. The recipe took a full four years to perfect, and it was worth every one. Hot tamarind chutney and East India relish are also extremely edible.


Manjira Pachadis

Manjira garlic pachadi Indian pickle relish

These pachadis are curious condiments – deeply savoury, dairy-, sugar-, and vinegar-free, pleasantly pesto-like in their oiliness. It’s none-too common to come across this kind of curious condiments,and what’s more, it’s far too hard to choose a favourite. All five flavours sing strongly of exactly what they are, so simply opt for one of each type: Garlic, Ginger, Tomato, Onion, and Tamarind.

The East India Company Lime pickle chutney

The East India Company Lime Pickle Chutney

There is nothing The East India Company makes that I would not happily take into a corner in the manner of Little Jack Horner, but this lime pickle chutney is a firm favourite. Miles away from the commercial ‘instant heartburn in a jar’ stuff, this is warm with ginger, boasts the piquant addition of mustard, and is full of fresh lime whose flavour is at once zingy and musky. V. good.


Hawkshead Relish Mild Indian sweet pepper pickle

Hawkshead Relish sweet Indian pepper chutney pickle

Aside from a much-mourned prawn pickle, Hawkshead’s Sweet pepper pickle is my pick from this all-encompassing relish range. The award-winning condiment combines selected spices and sweet capsicums, but leaves out the chilli – providing the perfect pickle for people who love Indian food but can’t stand the heat. It’s styled as a condiment but mellow enough to eat solo by the spoonful.

Next week, look out for ‘Always use a condiment: 10 Indianised ideas for enlivening your eating’…

  • To read my Indian food articles for The Spice Tailor, click here
  • To read a review of Mr. Todiwala’s Bombay Cookbook, click here
  • To read about Assado, Cyrus Todiwala’s Goan restaurant in London, click here
  • To read about more treats from The East India Company, click here
Advertisements

7 responses to “Get pickled! A guide to the best Indian condiments

  1. Pingback: Snake Gourd Curd Chutney or Potlakai Perugu Pachadi - Masalakorb·

  2. Pingback: The new hipster kitchen tricks that Indian cooks already knew, part 1 | Culinary Adventures of The Spice Scribe·

  3. Pingback: The new hipster kitchen tricks that Indian cooks already knew, part 2 | Culinary Adventures of The Spice Scribe·

  4. Pingback: The Chaat Room – interviews through Indian food part 1: That Hungry Chef | Culinary Adventures of The Spice Scribe·

  5. Pingback: Ten top tips for hosting an Indian summer garden party | Culinary Adventures of The Spice Scribe·

  6. Pingback: The chaat room – Interviews through Indian food Part 2: Cheeky Food Co. | Culinary Adventures of The Spice Scribe·

  7. Pingback: Moving forward, looking back – 2015’s best bits & greatest hits | Culinary Adventures of The Spice Scribe·

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s